How To Care For Your New Landscape
How to Care for Your New Landscape
Watering,
As the landscape crews are finishing their clean-up and the trucks pull away, the first thing you will be wondering is how to keep your new plants and trees alive and healthy. The first key to this is water, and not only getting it, but getting the correct amount. Newly installed plants are stressed and fragile due to being recently transplanted into your landscaping.
It is not easy to recommend a "one-size-fits-all" watering program due to the variations in soil conditions, rain, temperature and a plant's water needs. Every situation is different. Yet we hope this recommended outline provides you with information to best help you care for your new investment. Underwatering is usually the most common cause of death for newly transplanted plants. This is because one may not have the time to effectively water each plant. On the other hand, overwatering can also cause issues but can be corrected quicky. If you follow the outlined guidelines provided, you will have the best chance at a lasting and blooming landscape!
Know Your Output – How Much Water Does My Hose Output
- In Central Illinois, based on municipalities water pressure falling between 40-60psi, the average home spigot has a flow rate of 8-12 GPM (gallon per-minute). Knowing this, you can gauge roughly the time it takes to water each plant based on their size/type.
- LKM always recommends watering at a slower rate to encourage deep soil/root watering. If you apply water too quickly, the water cannot saturate into the soil deep enough to effectively water the root system of the plant. General rule of thumb is to open your water spigot halfway (4-6 GPM).
- If your schedule allows water even slower and place the hose down at the plant base while you attend to other garden chores. Return and move to the next plant and so on.
Week 1 & 2: Landscapers Completed Installation - Now What?
- Every flower, grass, shrub, and tree should be watered daily. Each of these plants have different root base sizes which dictates how much water is needed (think more roots = more water)
- Perennial Flowers = 1-2 gallons of water each (15-30 seconds)
- Decorative Grasses = 2 gallons of water each (30 seconds)
- Shrubs = 5-8 gallons of water each (1-2 minutes)
- Evergreen Trees = 10-15 gallons of water each (3-4 minutes)
- Deciduous Trees = 15-30 gallons of water each (4-6 minutes)
- To ensure that daily temperatures do not impact the plants, we recommend watering daily before 10am. If morning watering is not feasible, afternoon waterings before 3pm can be done but may need more water to recover from any heat/drought during the afternoon sun. DO NOT WATER AFTER 4pm. Evening watering, when soil cannot dry, creates high chance of fungal growth leading to plant health decline.
- When watering, always apply water to the soil at the base of the plant. Never pour water over the plant itself. Due to the transplant being weak, watering over the leaves/branches can cause structural damage and fungal issues to the foliage.
Week 3 & 4 : Roots are establishing – Am I done?
- When week 3 comes around, your plants should be less stressed and loving every ounce of water you have given them. Now it is time for the plants to take some responsibility. We recommend cutting back and only water every 2 days. This encourages plants to grow deeper roots and be more resilient.
- When watering less, the plants may begin to show you that they can confidently grow or not. If some plants begin browning or look dryer than the others, just add more volume during your waterings.
Week 5 : On their own – Will they survive?
- By week 5, pat yourself on the back, you got through the “plant-sitting” stage! You are probably excited to see your new water bill! Now is the time to see if your plants can survive without you holding their hand. Watering should only be needed if the health of a plant begins to decline or if harsh weather is present.
- If hot temperatures with no rain are forecasted for extended periods, we recommend watering once a week to ensure your plants continue establishing.
- Sit back and enjoy your new landscape for weeks and days to come!
Watering Tips: Underwatering & Overwatering
- Most plants will show you signs if they need more or less water. The best way to tell if you need water is by performing a simple test. Dig carefully six to eight inches near the root zone, and squeeze a handful of soil. If it is damp enough to form a ball, no water is necessary. If it falls apart easily, water. Don't be concerned if the top few inches of soil are dry, as this happens daily from a sunny afternoon. Roots need air almost as much as they need moisture. Watch trees and shrubs, especially those near lawn sprinklers, for over-watering stress. Below are a few symptoms of over watering and under-watering.
- Soil is dry
- Older leaves turn yellow or brown; drop off
- Leaves are wilted
- Leaves are drooping
- Leaves curl
- Stems or branches die back
Over Watering
- Soil is constantly damp
- Leaves turn lighter green to yellow, may drop off
- Young shoots are wilted
- Algae and/or mushrooms appear
- Leaves are green yet brittle
- Presence of soft, smelly rotted tissue
Pests and Diseases
You love your plants, so do the animals and insects! In Central Illinois, rabbits and deer are the biggest killers of all plants and trees. LKM highly recommends rabbit cages or chicken wire be installed around all plants to ensure their hungry mouths stay far enough away. After multiple growing seasons, established plants are mature enough to survive Bambi’s afternoon munch. But until then, protect your investment! Insect and disease problems occur over time. Correct diagnosis and identification is necessary to determine effective treatment. If you see anything out of the ordinary, for example, black leaf spot on Viburnum and spider mites on junipers, feel free to give the office a call or just stop on by to ask our staff what it might be.
Late Season Plantings – Do I Need To Do Anything?
Fall and winter care is especially critical to young plants. Long Indian summers often create drought conditions followed by sudden deep freezes. With sufficient moisture during extended fall and winter warm periods, plants are less subject to winter kill. Most winter kill is caused by roots freezing in dry soils. Water deeply during prolonged winter dry spells, even when plants are dormant.
Continued Maintenance
Pruning/Trimming – When should I do this?
- New plants (Under 2 Years) need little, if any, pruning during their first couple of seasons, but pruning needs may increase thereafter. During the first year, your goal is root establishment through proper watering. After the plant is established, let it grow!
- When the second fall season commences, your plant will need your help in keeping their space clear of debris. It is highly recommended you cut back dead foliage to allow maximum open space for new growth to occur the following spring.
- Trees will begin to grow new limbs that may be too low or impeding on existing branch structures. We recommend yearly pruning on trees to help raise canopies and promote tall and dense trees!
Fertilizer – Is it needed?
- It's not necessary to fertilize new plants after initial installation; doing so may burn new plant roots. Soil, improved at planting time, usually will supply a plant's nutritional needs the first season. Fertilizer is not a requirement for most plants installed by LKM but can be done after the first year. We recommend you fertilize after leaves emerge, but before mid-July. Avoid late-season fertilization; this encourages late, soft growth that is subject to winterkill. If you would like a more information on our fertilization program, email or give us a call!
LKM Mowing & Landscaping
2020 Eagle Rd.
Normal, IL 61761
www.lkmlandscaping.com
